Strange Beginnings: Surfpolitik

Posted on August 1, 2013 by Darin Sullivan in Earth, Water

Found this story about surf memories, could relate to it…

A few weeks ago I watched a surf school putting a group of kids through their paces. You know the stuff: They lie on soft boards making paddling motions then jump to their feet with their arms outstretched. I wondered briefly if anyone actually does surf like that anymore. Arms outstretched in that manner, I mean. Certainly to freeze in that position, which they all did, would be fatal on anything more significant than a tiny foamie. And there was something anachronistic about it: the wetsuits suddenly appearing like neck to knee c

English: A California surfer. Santa Cruz and the surrounding Northern California coastline is a popular surfing destination; however, the year-round low temperature of the ocean in that region (averaging 57ºF/14ºC) necessitates the use of wetsuits. Français : Un surfeur à Santa Cruz en Californie. La côte du nord californien est réputée pour ses spots de surf, mais la température de l’eau est toujours basse (14ºC) et nécessite le port d’une combinaison. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

ostumes, the whole scene, already monochromatic under a grey sky, like something from an old black and white newsreel. A small absurdist moment, shown now only to elicit laughter. Imagine thinking such bizarre practices could actually assist anyone learning to surf! Their stark rigidity so profoundly contrasting the essential fluidity of surfing itself. Their conformity mocking the central conceit of the individuality of our styles.

Read more here:

http://www.swellnet.com.au/news/3776-strange-beginnings