Strange Beginnings: Surfpolitik

Found this story about surf memories, could relate to it…

Strange Beginnings Surfpolitik.

A few weeks ago I watched a surf school putting a group of kids through their paces. You know the stuff: They lie on soft boards making paddling motions then jump to their feet with their arms outstretched. I wondered briefly if anyone actually does surf like that anymore. Arms outstretched in that manner, I mean. Certainly to freeze in that position, which they all did, would be fatal on anything more significant than a tiny foamie. And there was something anachronistic about it: the wetsuits suddenly appearing like neck to knee c

English: A California surfer. Santa Cruz and t...

English: A California surfer. Santa Cruz and the surrounding Northern California coastline is a popular surfing destination; however, the year-round low temperature of the ocean in that region (averaging 57ºF/14ºC) necessitates the use of wetsuits. Français : Un surfeur à Santa Cruz en Californie. La côte du nord californien est réputée pour ses spots de surf, mais la température de l’eau est toujours basse (14ºC) et nécessite le port d’une combinaison. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

ostumes, the whole scene, already monochromatic under a grey sky, like something from an old black and white newsreel. A small absurdist moment, shown now only to elicit laughter. Imagine thinking such bizarre practices could actually assist anyone learning to surf! Their stark rigidity so profoundly contrasting the essential fluidity of surfing itself. Their conformity mocking the central conceit of the individuality of our styles.

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About Darin Sullivan (1980 Articles)
Former President of the Fire Brigade Employees’ Union (2009-2018) and a professional firefighter with more than 30 years experience. I live and work on the NSW South Coast, Australia. I am a strong advocate for firefighters and emergency service workers with an interest in mental health issues and caring for those around me. I am a former Director on the NSW Fire Brigades Death and Disability Super Fund and work with charities including ‘The Movember Foundation’. As a leader and activist I have long been active in the campaign for action on climate change. I am a Station Commander in the fire and rescue service in NSW and have 30 years experience fighting fires, both rural and urban. I am passionate about highlighting the impact climate change is having on fire preparedness and fire behaviour in Australia, and the risks associated with inaction on climate change. I am also a spokesperson for the Australian Climate Media Centre.
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